Islamabad, May 18, 2025: Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has rewritten the record books by becoming the first from his country to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks entirely without supplemental oxygen.
This extraordinary feat, achieved after years of relentless pursuit, was finalized on Sunday when Khan reached the summit of Kangchenjunga—the world’s third-highest mountain at 8,586 meters—at 11:50 a.m. local time.
This milestone not only highlights his unmatched endurance but also elevates Pakistan’s status in the elite circle of high-altitude mountaineering.
Sirbaz Khan, hailing from the scenic Hunza Valley, had initially completed ascents of all fourteen “eight-thousanders” since 2017, though on two occasions he relied on bottled oxygen near the summits.
This season, driven by the ambition to join the very few climbers worldwide who have achieved this grueling challenge purely on natural breath, he made a remarkable return.
In April, he re-summited Annapurna, and this May, he scaled Kangchenjunga, both without using supplemental oxygen, solidifying his place among the world’s mountaineering elite.
Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have summited all these towering peaks without artificial oxygen, making Khan’s achievement particularly exceptional.
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The “death zone” above 8,000 meters poses immense physiological challenges, where oxygen levels drop so low that survival itself is a test of human limits.
By joining this exclusive fraternity, Khan has proven not only his physical and mental toughness but also showcased the potential of Pakistani climbers on the world stage.
Sirbaz’s journey began with a bold ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2017, and since then, he has conquered formidable giants including K2, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Shishapangma, among others.
His leadership and pioneering spirit have ignited inspiration across Pakistan’s climbing community, encouraging many aspiring mountaineers to dream big and push their boundaries.
Experts in high-altitude climbing laud Khan’s accomplishment as a testament to skill, resilience, and dedication.
Compared to other renowned climbers, Khan’s success at maintaining oxygen-free ascents on the toughest mountains is a rare testament to extreme human capability.
His achievement not only marks a personal victory but also signals Pakistan’s growing influence in global mountaineering.
For those inspired by Sirbaz Khan’s journey, his story is a powerful reminder that perseverance and passion can shatter limits.
Whether you are a climber or an enthusiast, this landmark achievement invites you to follow your own summit—whatever it may be. Stay tuned for more updates on Pakistan’s mountaineering legends and their incredible journeys.
